Stussy Taipei Exclusive t-shirt
Region to region, Stussy has maintained a strong presence in regards to anything streetwear. For the city of Taipei in Taiwan, the latest T-shirt features a unique font that represents the city that has come to be defined by an amalgamation of Chinese and Japanese culture. A Double S Link logo on the back adds a further branding hit. The T-shirt is available now at Stussy Taipei in several staple colors.
Brooklyn We Go Hard Paris Store Opening
BWGH has come to represent one of France’s fastest going high street brands and it’s no surprise the brand branches out into its first physical location. Located on the Seine shores, in the Cité de la Mode et du Design, BWGH took into account several key points to communicate its vision including a tribute to their favorite artist Yves Klein via a series of blue hued areas. A former home to another respected French label, Pigalle, BWGH pay homage to the previous tenants as well as balancing their unique aesthetic.
NEIGHBORHOOD flagship Store in Tokyo’s Harajuku hood
In the latest installment of their Highsnobiety Visits series they take a detailed look at the beautiful NEIGHBORHOOD flagship store in Tokyo’s Harajuku neighborhood. Motorcycle culture plays an important role in the brand’s look, feel and inspiration process. That was directly translated into the NEIGHBORHOOD store in Tokyo, which sits in the heart of the Harajuku shopping district, right below Supreme.
From the wooden fixtures, dark overall aesthetic, and the highly detailed merchandising, NEIGHBORHOOD impresses with a very clear brand message that is perfectly in line with its collections.
A Bathing Ape 2013 Spring/Summer “Hieroglyph camo” Collection
A Bathing Ape alongside the likes of maharishi have been important entities into reappropriation of camouflage as fashion. Since it’s original 1st CAMO right around the brand’s inception, camouflage has long been a persistent theme within the Japanese heavyweight’s DNA. A latest appropriation comes in the form of ”HIEROGLYPH CAMO” which follows some familiar BAPE color schemes in traditional army green, blue and pink. The collection available through apparel and accessories is available now at BAPE STORES across Asia and soon to hit BAPE STORE NYC.
Stussy goes Wildlife
Check out this brand new capsule collection from Stussy. Utilizing some eye-catching cheetah print, the brand has managed to stand out with this “Wildlife” collection. The iconic Stussy graphics – Stussy No. 4, SS Link and Stussy Logo – have been re-imagined with the use of the custom designed “Wildlife” print. Included in the collection is the Wildlife Shirt, the only piece that features the original “Wildlife” illustration in its entirety. The Wildlife Shirt will be available later this month, but the rest of the capsule collection is currently in stock at select Stussy retailers and the Stussy Japan online store.
15 Supreme Complex Reasons for Suing the Mob
Let’s play a quick game of catch-up: Supreme is taking Married to the Mob to court over MTTM’s use of the mark “Supreme Bitch.” Today, we discovered that Supreme filed for a trademark for its own box logo in March of this year, but also has maintained the trademark for the “Supreme” brand since 2011. Now, we got our hands on Supreme’s response to Married to the Mob’s case, helmed by civil liberties lawyer Normal Siegel. Supreme’s litigation is being handled by Brad D. Rose of Pryor Cashman, a law firm with a pretty cool list of clients. Which is probably the only time you will ever read that.
But seriously, does everything associated with Supreme have to be super cool?! Pryor Cashman’s past clients include Bob Dylan and Duke Ellington. Meanwhile Rose’s own clientele includes Lady Gaga, Justin Timberlake, and Nas. So it’s safe to say this isn’t his first rodeo… wonder if he gets free Supreme gear? In any case, we dropped down and got our legal on and examined Supreme’s arguments against McSweeney and Siegel’s case. The plot thickens as we look at Supreme™ Court: 15 Reasons Why Supreme Is Suing Married to the Mob*.
1. James Jebbia thought that the “Supreme Bitch” T-shirts would be a one-time thing.
In 2004, Jebbia was under the impression that Leah McSweeney would produce these T-shirts as part of a limited-run, and then they’d be gone forever. This practice isn’t necessarily new to streetwear, in fact, it’s pretty much the business model it’s built on: limited runs begets hype, hype begets demand, demand begets shit selling out instantly. Further, the suit alleges that the “Supreme Bitch” T-shirt was actually off the market for a while after its initial release.
*Technically, “Supreme’s lawyers,” because this whole thing reeks of legalese, and what kind of self-respecting cool person would want to muck around in torts all day?
2. The “Supreme Bitch” logo showed up again recently, but this time on a lot more than just T-shirts.
In December 2012, James Jebbia becomes aware of the re-release of “Supreme Bitch” gear, thanks to Rihanna, who wore a hat emblazoned with the mark in question.
3. McSweeney allegedly didn’t seek Jebbia’s approval re-release the T-shirt, nor expand the “Supreme Bitch” logo to other items.
This time, McSweeney re-released these products on her own. Everything from “a coffee mug, a knit hat, a cap, a mouse pad, and a beach towel” now bore the “Supreme Bitch” mark. Then Jebbia started getting questions as to whether or not this stuff was official Supreme gear. And on January 1, 2013, McSweeney applied for a trademark for “Supreme Bitch,” and planned to sell it at Urban Outfitters and Karmaloop. So Jebbia did what any guy in his situation would do: ask McSweeney what the hell was going on. Given McSweeney and Jebbia’s past dealings, things probably started off amicable. McSweeney allegedly assured Jebbia that she would “cease manufacturing and using the SUPREME BITCH Logo,” and would keep him informed of her remaining inventory of “Supreme Bitch” stuff, per the document.
4.McSweeney attempted to trademark “Supreme Bitch” a second time in March 2013.
Instead of ceasing production as she allegedly told Jebbia, McSweeney instead tried to apply for the “Supreme Bitch” trademark again on March 1, 2013. This directly conflicts with Supreme’s existing trademark from 2011, and is known by super-proper trademark law experts as “kind of a dick move.” The document alleges Jebbia “didn’t sit idly by for nearly a decade” but acted after he learned of the “Supreme Bitch” relaunch, and in reaction to McSweeney’s repeated attempts to trademark “Supreme Bitch,” after he had personally talked to her, sans lawyers.
5.Jebbia tried to play nice with McSweeney, and would even allow her to sell “Supreme Bitch” gear under a different logo.
Jebbia tried to not get the lawyers involved from the start. He allegedly gave McSweeney a chance to liquidate her remaining “Supreme Bitch” gear, but even continue to use the mark “Supreme Bitch,” albeit with a design that was “distinguishable from the SUPREME Logo.”
The document alleges that Married to the Mob “has in fact objectified and demeaned women” through marketing campaigns and apparel. They reference the Wet Dreams poster and T-shirt, where McSweeney is depicted having sex with “presumably a man” in a gorilla costume. The poster is from 2006′s Shandi for the MTTM x Kaws Campaign, and was limited to 100 copies.
MTTM has released gear that uses “shock value phrases that are not feminist but rather statements that objectify women and perpetuate negative stereotypes.” Examples given are things that say “Want Me Hold Me F*ck Me Hate Me” and “Will F*ck for Chanel.” More recently, MTTM offers this shirt saying “Good dick will imprison you.”
8. Supreme admits it evokes well-known brands, but says the suit is in response to the re-release of “Supreme Bitch” merchandise, not that it exists in the first place.
Streetwear has always had a sense of self-awareness, “sampling” logos and branding with a wink and a nod rather than an attempt to confuse its brand for another, more well-known brand. Supreme acknowledges the transformative nature of its oeuvre by admitting “that it has used designs which have evoked certain brands well-known in American pop culture.” But mainly, it denies that there was a “long delay” between the initial “Supreme Bitch” T-shirt and this court case, since the offending items in question were only re-introduced to the market about 2 years ago.
The case alleges that MTTM produced a men’s shirt emblazoned with “Bitch Better Have My Money Not Some Not Half But All of My Cash,” a phrase obviously paying homage to pimps and prostitutes. Another shirt read “Bitches Get Stitches,” which is counterintuitive to MTTM’s claim that they are “reclaiming” the term bitch. As the case puts it: “None of these examples reflects ‘strength and assertiveness’ of women but rather humiliation, degradation, and misogyny.”
10. Supreme sells its clothes to women, and puts Kate Moss, Chloe Sevigny, and Lady Gaga on T-shirts. Ergo, “Grrl Power!”
11. Supreme was “influenced” by Barbara Kruger, but claims to never have “appropriated” designs.
On the one hand, Supreme’s logo is a flip of Kruger’s artwork, but it could be interpreted that it’s transformative in the sense that the brand took something catering to high art and that culture, and repurposed it in the world of skating. In fact, Supreme’s artist decks do just that-despite their insane aftermarket prices, any kid can go into the shop or website and buy a piece of skateable art. It’s also alleged that Kruger was in talks to actually do a deck with Supreme, which purportedly fell through because she wanted her art to go on the top of the board, not the bottom.
When third parties had objections to certain Supreme products, Supreme “promptly resolved those objections.” The case claims that Supreme went on to develop an “ongoing cordial business relationship” with many of these companies. Companies that include Campbell’s Soup Company, Playboy, Universal Studios, The North Face, and Louis Vuitton Monet Hennessey. Each of those companies mentioned has had an intellectual property appear on Suprme products in officially-licensed collaborations.
13. Jebbia admits to approving the initial “Supreme Bitch” T-shirt, but denies selling it at Union. He also says limited-edition apparel is a hallmark of the streetwear industry.
Jebbia denies that he offered McSweeney’s tees for sale at Union, and further emphasizes that the only reason he approved the design “was for a one-time use of SUPREME BITCH on a T-shirt, as is the standard practice in the skatewear and street wear industry.” This is pretty in line with Bobby Hundreds’ outlook on streetwear, that “distribution through selective channels, sales distro and image are what ultimately constitute a brand as streetwear, not the art or design.”
14. The “Supreme Bitch” logo dilutes the “Supreme” brand “by selling a lower-quality product.”
Supreme prides itself on the quality control of its products. Clothes are meant to withstand the rigors of skating, and the graphics are informed by a rich cultural influence spanning the worlds of music, art, and pop culture. The brand claims that MTTM’s “Supreme Bitch” mark dilutes those very ideals because the logo is so similar, and not transformative at all. Essentially, Supreme feels MTTM’s continued use of “Supreme Bitch,” is corny, and by selling it available at retailers like Urban Outfitters, it makes the “exclusive” Supreme look even worse.
15. McSweeney invoking the First Amendment is just some smart lawyer bullsh*t and this is really about money.
When the case says McSweeney uses the “Supreme Bitch” mark as a “source identifier,” what that means is she believes people will see that, and think of Married to the Mob. While that’s true, Supreme argues that people will also think of their brand first, which is also very true. The case says “SUPREME BITCH is a transparent effort to profit from the goodwill and the brand recognition of the SUPREME Logo.”
Living & Growing - Behind the tee with Josh Peas & Anwar Carrots at their new shop
The rise of Peas & Carrots has taken an admirably entrepreneurial turn with the rise of the collective’s clothing line. On the backs of Josh Peas and Anwar Carrots, the brand has transformed from a small idea to an international phenomenon, developing a cult following in the process. This is evidenced by the success of Peas & Carrots’ most recent endeavor: a pop-up shop in New York. Student Hip-Hop Organization (SHHO) has a brief feature highlighting the Peas & Carrots International ‘secret shop’, newly opened in Los Angeles. Josh and Anwar touch on the feeling of creating their own brand in this smooth piece, which can be enjoyed above.
Todd James & PUMA 2013 Fall/Winter Capsule Collection
With roots firmly grounded in the bustling concrete sidewalks of New York City, Todd James‘ work is nearly symbolic of the colorful, imaginative, and oftentimes comic aspects of urban life. The internationally-renowned artist brought his skills to a new relationship with PUMA, resulting in a new capsule collection for Fall/Winter 2013. The range consists of several T-shirts and sweatshirts that find PUMA’s most iconic emblems humorously reappropriated with a contemporary edge. The brand silhouette has been personified into a full color animal slinking across a T-shirt, while PUMA’s environmentally-friendly bag has been brought to life – and lent a pair of fresh Suedes. Look for this exciting collaboration from PUMA and Todd James in the coming weeks.
ANIMAL want you to “Sue Me” by DIY
As we’ve covered extensively, Supreme is suing Married To The Mob over their decade-old “Supreme Bitch” parody T-shirt. The general consensus is that this situation is a bit ridiculous as Supreme themselves are known for their own parodies and bootlegs – not to mention that fact that the logo in question is a flip of artist Barbara Kruger’s work. Kruger herself weighed in on the lawsuit, calling it “a ridiculous clusterfuck of totally uncool jokers.”
In lieu of these events, NYC blog ANIMAL created a “Sue me” parody tee, which they’re giving away for free via Klughaus Gallery. Stop by 154 Stanton Street (corner of Suffolk Street) from 12-8 p.m. daily. Or you can make your own – head to ANIMAL to find out how.
Behind the Tee with EN Noir going “Of the Wall”
Luxury streetwear brand En Noir sits down with Jay-Z’s Life + Times at TriBecA boutique Patron of the The New to talk about the brand’s beginnings before eventually establishing itself as one of the brightest brands to emerge in recent times. In particular, brand founders CurT@!n$, Rob Garcia and Jason Wolter revisit their streetwear origins before detailing their passion for the combination of high level technical execution and subdued presentation that goes into their designs. However, quick to remain humble, the three also recall some of the challenges faced in developing the brand which has culminated in their current degree of wider recognition.
The 1st Bape Short is a Camo Shark
BAPE announced some great new releases hitting the shelves in a couple of days. Especially this dope pair of shark print camouflage sweat shorts caught our eye. It comes in a green and navy colorway. So step up your fashion game and drop by the New York BAPE store or online to cop your very own one.
Black Scale & The Cuts 2013 COMME des FUCKDOWN “Everything is purple” Capsule Collection
A nod to the chorus of A$AP Rocky‘s “Purple Swag,” the Black Scale x The Cuts COMME des FUCKDOWN “Everything Is Purple” Pack is set to release today at Black Scale’s nationwide locations and website. The collaboration includes SSUR‘s associated “The Cuts” line “COMME des FUCKDOWN” design on snapbacks, hoodies and tees, but reworked in purple for fans of Pretty Flacko, codeine or Barney the Dinosaur. Look for the capsule collection to release at Black Scale locations in San Francisco, New York and Los Angeles and online .
Hood By Air Morphs
Despite origins dating back to the mid-2000s, HOOD BY AIR has reemerged in recent times and enjoyed a meteoric rise. Under the creative direction of founder Shayne Oliver, the brand has seemingly found itself at the center of a new movement in streetwear. Stylistically it has come to represent an intersection of Oliver’s hometown New York edge with a certain high fashion disposition. This formula has yielded quite the eclectic mix of followers which has gotten behind the brand’s defined high street and at times androgynous aesthetic. A short video titled “MORPH” outlines the brand’s recognizable offerings set against a simple yet dramatic backdrop. While printed offerings represent the brunt of HBA, for now, there have been communicated plans to expand into more complex pieces as well as denim.
At Scion‘s lifestyle gallery and retail space on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, cult fashion label Hood By Air has set up its first pop-up shop along with a month-long installation featuring the unsettling video above among many other things. The shop runs from May 18 – June 16 and is located at:
Scion AV Installation
7667 Melrose Ave,
Los Angeles, CA 90046
Champion Japan 2013 Spring/Summer Lookbook
It might seem unfair to parade yet another lookbook of great clothes that are only available to buy in Japan, or by paying extortionate prices on shipping, but it’s necessary to see what sports brand Champion has to offer this season none the less. With a mix of ’80s jersey and ’30s varsity styles, the designers have taken sports influenced designs to the next level with smart cuts and clever styling.
Akomplice Where’s Wally Pocket
Akomplice, who seem to be releasing doper and doper collections at break neck speed, have yet another one set to drop this week. We’ll have the whole collection for you but wanted to first highlight this insane Where’s Waldo Pocket T. So fresh! Get another look after the jump. Go here for a list of Akomplice dealers.