Daily Paper’s Spring/Summer ode to ancient kingdoms
Amsterdam based menswear label Daily Paper presents its 2014 Spring / Summer collection. Prints continue to play an important role in the aesthetics of Daily Paper.
For their new collection the young Amsterdam based label drew inspiration from the unique patterns, colors and fabrics from the ancient Kuba kingdom. The collection is set for availability in the 3rd week of March through the Daily Paper online store and selected retailers.
More than four centuries ago, about 20 tribes settled in the Kasai region in Congo and formed the Kuba kingdom .
The empire was known for her sense of precision and beauty, which is reflected in Daily Paper’s SS14 collection through distinctive geometric patterns and use of colors.
The collection is an ode to the ancient Kuba kingdom.The brand is trying to stay true to its philosophy through quality clothing, fine detailing and distinctive designs. The collection is filled with well tailored staples such as: All over print T-shirts, denim shirts covered in prints, classic bomber jackets, chore coats, and all over embroidered shorts.
The collection will become available for purchase in the last week of March through Daily Paper’s online store and selected retailers.
BTT: Tourne the Transmission’s Graeme Gaughan by Breaks Magazine
I stupidly respect Graeme Gaughan. Dude is the communications director of London agency IPR, works there full time and still finds the time to run a fully fledged fashion brand that in just over two years has grown from a t-shirt and sweat line into one of the most exciting new brands to come out of London in recent times.
I’m obsessed with using time properly, it’s why I have the dumbest clock tattoo’d on my arm and it’s why I even attempt to try balance Breaks, work, life and everything else. I respect Graeme’s hustle because anyone can have a side project, but to do it well is a whole different ball game. TDT has my attention, now I wanna find out more.
So firstly, how did TDT come about?
You spend all day working with brands, I imagine it wasn’t hard to spot a gap that needed filling? I had been designing T-shirts and merchandise for some bands for a while before hand. And graphic design & Photography have always been something i had a lot of interest in. Spending a lot of my time with brands did give me some insights as to what worked well in the market, but i wasn’t trying to fill a gap per say. Starting TDT was more like a personal art project, or a way to exercise creative impulses. And thats how I approach each collection, research and ideas around a central theme or message which i then transfer to clothing.
How do you balance a fully fledged fashion brand and a day job?
I work a lot… haha. I dont have a lot of spare time of course. But I love doing both… I really enjoy having experience with lots of different brands and concepts. And also I can appreciate what the designers I look after go through. Its hard to establish a brand and then appreciate that I can talk from experience in that area.
Every collection thus far as had a strong central theme. How important is that to you and do you think some other younger brands miss the point by not being cohesive in that way?
I cant speak for other brands who create product without any form of concept… Not that this is wrong or right way to go, its just not how i think when i put together a collection. Having a central idea or message is very important to me. It keeps things focused and without it things would become very open and have the potential to get watered down.
I hate the ‘inspiration’ question but your collections beg the question; just where do you draw these ideas from?
It literally can come from anywhere or anything. Photography is usually a spring board, seeing print ideas within my own or other forms of photography. I am not really a fan of patterns that are made specifically for garments.. not for TDT anyway. I like to look at photographs and think how i can work into them to create a print on a garment. But then there are things like the gang of bangladeshi kids that hang out at the end of my street, the way they mix traditional Muslim garments with modern casual wear is always interesting to me…. And this has been an influence in the forthcoming AW14 collection.
Can you tell us more about why you choose to use a lot of t-shirts and sweats?
For the foundation of the brand at least. T-shirts and Art work hand in hand and a T-shirt is able to convoy a message in the same way a canvas hung in a gallery is… And in fact its a much more subtle, tactile and mobile way of creating that message. Look at katharine hamnett in the 80′s. She couldn’t have walked into downing street with a big canvas or poster…
I think there’s a lot to be said for having something as strong as a t-shirt as a foundation, get that right and the only way is up wouldn’t you agree?
To an extent yes… but I didn’t do just T-shirts for very long. I quickly realised that if i wanted to create a larger idea or concept then it would need more product and an overall look. And being someone who is into product it was exciting to create new categories and expend the collection. It was just about finding a way to make these new categories relevant to the overall concept. And there is the flip side of buyers needing to see more product in order to buy a selection that works for them. They like to create a look from choosing parts of the collection, not all of it. This is their chance to be creative so they like the options…. otherwise everyone has the same product in the stores.
You’ve spoken before about the lack of design training behind the brand – do you think that inadvertently, thats actually aided you?
Yes from the perspective that i want afraid to try things and would think you can do things that are very in fact quite difficult for factories. And if i had some training I may have not even entertained the idea of trying these idea. And I also get a lot of happy accidents through trying things and not knowing if they will work. I am actually getting a lot more technical now and have learnt a hell of a lot about designing product over the last two years so my specs and patterns are now pretty good. This will be really important as the range expands.
What are your plans for 2014 with the brand?
I want to introduce more product categories, and create more in season sub collections. I have a stack of artist friends who I have plans to collaborate with over the next few years in these sub or capsule collections. Also international expansion is important to the growth of the brand… there are still some territories where you cant physically buy our products. Only online… I have been told that the product performs very well in stores as well as online and this is important for me to have that connection with the customers…
Words: Tom Kirkby
Photos: Ruth Flanagan
Carven 2014 Summer Editorial
Stussy’s got “All the Logos”
Stussy takes a look back at its own history with the release of the “All The Logos” tee for Spring 2014. Available in either white or black, the short-sleeve T-shirt displays some of the streetwear icon’s oft-seen logos from the past three decades – everything from a graffiti tag, skull-and-crossbones graphic, and crest to designs like the “Stussy International,” “Stussy Athletics” and “Big 4″ imagery make appearances throughout. Stussy’s “All The Logos” tee is now available via special mail order from its Japanese web store for ¥5,500 JPY (approximately $54 USD) and is set to ship this May.
ISETAN MEN 2014 “Digital Liberty Art Creation” Lookbook
Japanese department store ISETAN MEN presents the lookbook for its 2014 collection, titled “Digital Liberty Art Creation.” The lookbook was part of a larger project to present advances in print fabrics that is currently being held on two floors at ISETAN’s Shinjuku location. Curated pieces include patterned items from N.HOOLYWOOD and MARKAWARE such as sweatshirts, blousons and shorts. The collection was digitally printed using dyeing technology from Komatsu Seiren that is able to produce about 16,700,000 different colors.
Digital Liberty Art Creation will continued to be offered on the 2nd (International Creators) and 6th (Contemporary Casual) floors of the ISETAN MEN store in Shinjuku until March 18.
Baumer 2014 Spring/Summer Lookbook
Baumer is a brand known for it’s progressive blending of sportswear with a rebellious modern aesthetic. The blending of styles is very noticeable, taking in cues form timeless military and athletics staples. The lookbook showcases some leggings and track pants in combination with eye-catching graphics. A highlight is the ‘I declare war” t-shirt that shows that rebellious modern mix. Head over to Baumer for the full collection.
Palace 2014 Skateboards Spring/Summer Collection
Stampd x 424 on Fairfax 2014 Spring/SummerCollection
Stampd teamed up with 424 on Fairfax for a small exclusive collection. This collaborative collection is comprised by four 50/50 cotton fleece blended staples. A sweatshirt coming in the colours grey and black featuring a white leather “C” applique and stripes screenprinted on the sleeves. The sweatshirts come with two pairs of pants in the same colours with the logo printed on the legs. You can buy the collection now via the Stampd online store.
Being Urban Natured you got 10hrs left, that’s not an Understatement
In this fashion crazed world new brands emerge constantly throughout the world. But what sets them apart is what they represent; some exist for artistic expression and others merely for profit. Then there are brands that seek to influence and innovative the creativity in popular culture. Meet Urban Natured a high-end content company that focus on celebrating all walks of urban city culture through fashion and design.
A group made up of supporters and believers of this concept brand was created-The City Raised Group- rapidly it has become its own subculture with people from around the world grasping the concept of what it means to be “Urban Natured.” The City Raised Group’s message revolves around being true to one’s self, and never settling for anything less than one’s absolutely best while striving for greatness.
Now Urban Natured Clothing and The City Raised Group is embarking on a new campaign; “Understatement”. On March 5th at midnight the brand will be releasing 21 jackets that will be sold through their website , and you will only have 20 days to get yours.
The jackets will be sold for $150 USD except for one. This will be the STEALTH jacket, which is an all white jacket with tones of grey. This jacket will be made out of premium fabric, have 24k gold hinges, and will be the only one ever produced. The price point on this bad boy: $2,000 USD. These 21 jackets will only be release this ONE TIME ONLY and won’t be produced again, making them extremely limited edition.
What makes this campaign even more unique is the innovative website which will run for the 20 day period. Fans will have the option of selecting one of 20 icons of the UNDERSTATEMENT logo when purchasing the jacket. Once the jacket has been purchased that particular icon will behave an X over it, and once someone hovers over it the buyers name will pop up, proudly showcasing the exclusive owner of the limited edition item.
If you go on the brands site now (www.urbannatured.com) you can check out a new promo video as it counts down till the the midnight release (Eastern time) on March 5th.
This is one of many more limited edition campaigns set to release by the brand this year.
Also be on the lookout for their Spring/Summer Dropout Collection set to release in April.
A.P.C. x M/M 2014 Spring/Summer CollectionParis based brand A.P.C. teamed up with fellow Frenchmen Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag of M/M for a collaborative limited edition collection. Know for there maniakel eye of detail A.P.C uses this collection so speak to the crowd with the use of customized typography and images.
The A.P.C. x M/M T-shirt collection will launch today in-store and online.
adidas Originals x Barbour to Release 2014 Fall/Winter Collection
A bridging of two heritage lifestyle imprints, adidas Originals and Barbour are set to collaborate on a premium collection come fall. The collaboration is upheld by both label’s reputable history and an ongoing foray in innovative designs. The collection will be released via adidas Consortium partner stores and select Barbour stockists from October 2014. Stay tuned for more information from this interesting partnership.
Kith “Us” Crewneck & Quilted Bleecker Sweatpants
Last Saturday Kith’s 66 Bleecker Street pop-up, Kith Brooklyn was hit by the sweats.
Derived from its own “Just Us” motto is Kith‘s new “Us” crewneck. Appearing in forest, burgundy, black and orange, the piece features 320 GSM french terry cotton construction with raglan sleeves, ribbed side gussets and contrasting “Us” branding across the front. Joining the sweatshirts are the Quilted Bleecker Sweatpants, which are made with the same custom-sourced cotton and include a tech elastic drawstring waistband, two front pockets, two back zippered pockets, a tapered fit, and 4″ ribbed cuff. Available in forest, burgundy and orange, each comes complete with a reflective 3M Kith logo hit to the bottom of the left leg.
Staple 2014 Spring “SEASONAL AFFECTIVE” Video Lookbook – Part 1
“New York is that bad bitch who doesn’t give you the time of day… but you love her for it.” The Staple crew was almost at its wit’s end thanks to the near-constant barrage of terrible weather that’s hit the Big Apple over the past few months. Thankfully, the creative team at Brickhouse Projects came to the rescue, coming up with a way to do something beautiful with the ever-present snow to highlight Staple’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection. The resulting two-part lookbook – dubbed “SEASONAL AFFECTIVE” – symbolizes the ongoing love-hate relationship many have with New York as it’s both grimy and gorgeous, obscured and bright. Enjoy part one above and stay tuned for the second installment of the piece. Staple’s Spring 2014 release is now available via Reed Space.
Van Styles for the Agenda x FILA Capsule Collection
We already showed you some images of the Agenda x FILA Capsule collection last week. Today we return to take another look at the pieces from this collaborative collection. This time by the hand of photographer Van Styles who shot renowned model Brittany Nicole Lucas in these limited garbs. The capsule is comprised out of a tee, track pants, wristband. bucket hat and FILA Overpass Runner. Originally gifted to VIPs and select Agenda Vegas attendees, the limited edition capsule collection will also be making its way to additional folks in the near future.
Uniforms for the Dedicated 2014 Spring/Summer Shirts
From Stockholm, Sweden we present Uniforms for the Dedicated, know for their Swedish approach on design by creating durable and sustainable garments that are still fresh and stylish.Their 2014 Sprin/Summer shirt collection makes use of abstract patterns, paint splatters making the prints very bold. That scandinavian style can also be seen by the slim cuts and all-over prints. Highlights must be the exclusive work by surrealist painter Antonio Lourenco. In keeping with the brand’s dedication to high-quality, sustainable fabrics, each piece is constructed from soft Panama cotton, and is available now from the HYPEBEAST